1950 Ford F-1 Pickup

Our continuing Project F-1 truck is moving right along, and this month we tackle installing the glass in both the cab and the doors. Once again, Altered Engineering in Orange, California, got the call as we continue to build this custom hauler. All the original glass in the '50 Ford had seen better days, so we called on Sacramento Vintage Ford for all-new glass. A few days later the big brown truck arrived with several boxes.

The replacement windshield was ordered with a tinted strip at the top for sun protection on those bright So Cal days, while the door and back glass were smoked for privacy and a cool look. To carry the smooth look that the truck was getting even further, Sacramento Vintage Ford supplied a one-piece side-glass kit that eliminates the vent windows in the doors for a totally clean and custom look.

Since the guys were installing new door glass, we figured that they might as well be power, and this also seemed like a good time to install solenoids for the doors. The outer handles have been shaved from the body, so we needed a way to open them from the outside. AutoLoc came through with the power window kit and the solenoids, as well as some very cool power window switches that will actually allow us to keep the original-style replacement window cranks from Blue Oval Truck Parts.

Many backyard builders are afraid to tackle glass installation and leave it to the pros. As the following pictures show, it really isn't an impossible task--especially in trucks like the F-1s that have all flat glass, not the curved windshield as on the '53 and later Fords.

We took the better part of a day to complete the job, but with some patience and a little luck the home builder could duplicate these results over a weekend in the garage with a couple of buddies. Check out how we installed the glass and hardware--then you'll have an idea if you have the tools and ability to tackle this task yourself.

With some tape on the edge of the door for protection, Peter slipped the one-piece window glass into the door. You can see that the lower track that controls window operation comes attached to the glass from Sacramento Vintage Ford. The window goes into the door sideways and then is rotated into the correct position.	These universal kits from AutoLoc were used to turn the hand-crank windows into power operation. These will work great on any flat-glass application and weren't very difficult to install.	It's necessary to get a height measurement before mounting the power window unit to fit your specific truck. You need to make sure that the window will go all the way up and that it's resting on the stop when all the way open. A little patience and trial and error was necessary to figure out the mounting location.
To control the power windows, AutoLoc has these cool power window switches that allow you to retain your original window cranks for a stock look. The window crank will move approximately 15 degrees up or down to open and close the window.	Here's the new replacement window cranks and inside door handles from Blue Oval Truck Parts. From the inside the truck keeps an original feel while controlling modern conveniences. Even though we're installing AutoLoc solenoids for the doors, we kept the mechanical inside door latches and handles for safety sake. You wouldn't want to be trapped inside the truck if the battery went dead or when/if an electrical short might occur.	To run the wires to the doors for both the power windows and the door solenoids, we found these trick billet aluminum and stainless steel flexible wire conduits from Specialty Power Windows. The spring moves in and out with the door, preventing the wires from being pinched and also offer a very clean look when the door is open.
After making sure that the spring, collars, and wire cleared everything inside the door, Don used a hole saw and drilled the appropriate holes in both the door and the doorjamb.	The aluminum collar was slipped into the doorjamb with the spring attached. The spring stays attached to one side and slides in and out of the opposite side. We chose the doorjamb side to be stationary to make sure that the spring wouldn't get caught on anything behind the kick panel. They can be installed either way depending upon your individual application.	The other side of the spring was then flexed into the collar in the door to complete the installation.